Thursday, February 23, 2017

Creation Myth, Part 1


My father was a good shot, when his gun was working. You have to be if your dinner depends on shooting a four foot iguana that is ambling high in the rain forest canopy. The problem was that sometimes they fell out of the tree and into the river, sinking to the bottom, becoming very difficult to find. It could be several days later that the carcass was spotted by me or my sister, stuck in flotsam along the river’s edge.

“I knew I got him!” My father exclaimed as the bloated, very dead iguana drifted lazily by.

The iguana escaped the soup pot but, unfortunately, had not cheated death.

Ever since he came back from iguana hunting empty handed we teased him about missing the shot. He swore that he had not missed, and now he was vindicated. He removed the swollen creature from the water and lamented about the waste of a good meal. Rosie and I we not particularly fond of iguana stew anyway because the meat is very dark and a bit slimy. In fact, we though iguana was pretty gross. We figured the iguana had done us a favor by escaping.

However, we kept this to ourselves because if our father was hunting iguana, it meant that times were tough. Truth be told, neither he nor my mother enjoyed iguana but it was better than nothing and most of the time, nothing was what we had.

My parents met in February 1973 in Market Square in the heart of Belize City. Market square is still a bustling locale, where vendors hawk everything from cashew fruit to brightly colored Sunday dresses.



Mary Kay Burr was 23 years old in 1973. The daughter of an accountant and a country-club secretary, she had a bachelor’s degree in theater from Wayne State University in Detroit. She was the captain of the cheerleading squad at Farmington High School in Farmington Hills, Michigan. She was Miss Teen Michigan, and went on to compete in the Miss Teen USA pageant in Texas. She sang soprano and starred in several opera productions while at Wayne State. After college, she made a very good living singing jingles for radio commercials and performing in night clubs, including the Playboy Club in Detroit. By all outward appearances, she was successful. She had her own downtown penthouse apartment, a nice car, and plenty of suitors. 

But she was restless; something inside of her would not sit still. Maybe it’s the same thing that compelled me to make the agonizing choice fifteen years later to walk away, by myself, from my family. But, then again, maybe not.

After her beauty pageant days, Mary Kay became a back-to-nature flower child. When McGovern lost the 1972 election, she decided to backpack through Central America. Her stated destination was Columbia, South America, but like any free-wheeling non-conformist, the real destination was the journey itself.

I don’t know what made her throw her belongings into a backpack and take off. In the 60’s revolution and lots of pot smoke was in the air and everyone was high off of it. Bras were burnt and armpits were hairy. My mom and her hippie friends dreamt of a new world order where peace and love prevailed. But by 1972 America was waking up from the dream. Mary Kay was not ready for that. She held on to her dreams, packed them in that backpack with her caftans and patchouli oil, and headed to Mexico.

She ended up in Belize by accident. Mexico turned out to be a terrible misadventure that she barely survived. She met a man there who, like all men, was probably attracted to her stunning looks. She had long dark hair, fair skin that could hold a glowing tan, and big doe eyes. And she was, perhaps, a bit naive. The man was wealthy. He took her out, they had fun, and then they went back to his place. He wanted things to go further than she did. When she declined his advances, he took what he wanted.

Afterwards her, he locked her in a room and left her dazed and shaken on the floor. It was something she wouldn’t talk about for 30 years.

She had no idea where she was. The room had a narrow window that looked out onto a stretch of ocean populated with mangrove trees. She managed to open the window and squeeze her body through it, making her way by swimming through the mangroves along the shoreline until she saw signs of civilization. She was helped by a couple of long haired beach bums who were also young American travelers. They were headed to the Yucatan in their VW Bus. In need of the kindness of strangers, my mom went along for the ride. 

The Yucatan, with its unspoiled stretches of white sand, was the perfect place to recover from her ordeal. The two travelers were gentlemen who treated her kindly and did not try to take advantage of her. But, like many a tourist in Mexico, Montezuma’s revenge eventually caught up with her. Her companions nursed her back to health but the bout with dysentery took its toll. She did not feel strong enough to continue as planned onto the Pan-American Highway to South America. There was a country she had never heard of just a few miles south. British Honduras (now Belize) was just a days drive away.

And so the Michigan beauty queen found herself on the hot and crowded streets of the British colony, trying to discern the thick Pidgin English dialect as she haggled over the price of a mango.

In steps my father. 


Thursday, February 16, 2017

Sparkles of Hope




Some things are just meant to be.  That was the unshakable feeling I had about my sparkly Smurfette sandals.  They came to me in an unexpected way, against all odds. 

The day they dropped themselves into my life was a reasonably ordinary day in the life of a pair of jungle girls.  Our mother was pillaging through the old, army green duffel bags we kept under the house, looking for a few new items to add to our wardrobe.  During our visits to Michigan, she would stock up on clothing for my older sister Sarah and me to wear during our time in the jungle.  Our baby sister Minni didn't have a stockpile of clothes in these duffel bags yet, all she wore at the time was a diaper, sometimes a little sleeping gown, sometimes nothing at all.  Everything in the duffel bags was usually kept dry and safe for future use beneath a tarp, under our stilted house.  

Sarah and I had 4 or 5 outfits each, that we wore over and over, week in, week out.  Being active little girls living in the jungle, our clothes took quite a beating.  Between climbing every tree we could find, the constant presence of mildew, soot from the fire we used for cooking and scrubbing them on river rocks to keep them clean, our clothes were destined to fall apart, meeting their journey's end as kitchen or bath rags.  In the past few weeks leading up to this particular day, two major clothing casualties had occurred.  First, my sister snagged her pink shorts on a tree, causing a huge hole on one side.  Then, my favorite gray dress with the tiny flowers ripped and, after being mended so many times that the fabric became thin in spots, was beyond repair.  Sarah and I watched with great anticipation as my mother searched through the duffel bags. 

The days of clothing replacement were always bittersweet.  With so few outfits to choose from, we grew quite attached to what we had.  Each one had its own feeling, its own spirit.  I was sad to give up my grey dress, it was perfect for twirling.  I knew Sarah felt the same about her pink shorts, they fit her perfectly, hugging her long legs with a very complimentary pink color.  But replacing the clothes was exciting as well because since we didn't get to shop for new clothes in the jungle of Belize, this was as close as we got retail therapy.  The idea of something new, or at least new to us (most of the items in the duffel bags were hand-me-downs from family and friends) was very intriguing.  After several minutes of digging through the bags, our mother finally pulled out a light pink top and a pair of blue shorts for me.  The shorts were a bit long, and the top had a tendency to slip off one shoulder. This new outfit certainly lacked the fun whimsical quality of my grey dress, but I knew the shorts would be ideal for climbing trees. My mother continued digging, pulling out a wrinkled pair of white shorts with rainbow piping for Sarah.  She also found out a yellow tank top.  They both fit perfectly, and Sarah was satisfied.  She definitely got the better end of the deal, as my slightly over-sized clothes seemed flat and dull in comparison to her fanciful new outfit.  I let out a sigh of disappointment, and yanked the neck of my shirt back in place.  However, a surprise awaited me; my mother pulled out a pair of sparking pink sandals from the duffel and set them on the floor. 

"I forgot I packed these.”

"My Smurfette sandals!" Sarah said with excitement and confusion. 

That is exactly what they were, the wonderful Smurfette sandals Sarah had worn during our last summer in Michigan, over two years ago.  I could still picture her, prancing around on the perfectly manicured lawns of Farragut Court in those sparkly shoes. She was a true vision.

"These are too small for you, honey," my mother said.  "You were out growing them last time we were in Michigan."

Sarah was already busily trying to cram her foot into one of the sandals.  There was no denying that they were way too small.  Her foot barely fit between the delicate side straps, and her toes and heel were hanging over the edges of the shoe.

"Try them on, Rosie," my mother said as she tossed one of the sandals towards me.

I slipped the sandal on my foot, and buckled it as tight as it would go.  The shoes were a bit big, and already had quite a few miles on them, but I felt like Cinderella.  I knew then and there these shoes were exceptional.  My mother examined how the sandals fit, and told me I could wear them with socks until I grew into them.  I scrambled to find a pair of socks, strapped on both sandals and trotted outside.  I couldn't believe my luck.  My mother could have left these shoes behind in Michigan, it would have made sense, they were too small for Sarah and too big for me.  If my mother had found these shoes in the duffel earlier, Sarah may have been able to squeeze her foot into them, and she would have been able to claim them as her own once again. But as luck would have it, those events did not happen, the shoes made their way to Belize, and remained hidden for two years -- it was simply meant to be.

In the depths of the rain forest, during a time when money and food were in short supply for our family, these sandals made me feel like a posh American girl.  They reminded me of a different time in my life, when food and friends were plentiful.  There I was, a little jungle girl wearing socks and sparkly sandals everywhere I could.  When I saw those sandals on my feet, I felt hopeful for my future, they were a symbol of strength to get through the hard and trying times.  When hunger came, or my father's yelling, or my mother's crying, the sandals and their sparkles were my armor. When they were on my feet, I knew the dark clouds would pass.

Eventually after many months, the jungle began to lay claim on my precious sandals.  The straps on the side began to break, and even though my mother tried to glue them, I knew they were beyond repair.  I had worn them all over, to explore the rough jungle terrain, to climb trees, and to play in mud. One morning, I put them by my bed.  I couldn't wear them anymore, but I could still look at them, and seeing them sparkle in the sun kept me hopeful.  Just seeing them next to my pillow gave me a sense that somewhere, somehow in my future, I would have another pair of Smurfette sandals.  With a spark of promise in my heart, I tucked them under my pillow for safe keeping, and ran outside, with my bare feet, to romp and play with my big sister.



Thursday, February 9, 2017

What It Feels Like For A Girl (The River Is Like My Heart)


The rains came early that year. The girl did not know then that it would be the last year she would be here to see the rains roll in. Rushing, brown water swelled rivers and the wild bananas burst into bloom as if to say thank you to the gods of alluvion. The ground became soft and slippery, thick mud squishing between her toes as she ran across the yard at sunrise to let the chickens out of coop.  Most mornings in the rainy season brought respite from the overnight deluge, so the birds could leave the coop and venture out to forage before the rain showers returned in the late afternoon.

On her way back from the coop, she paused under the mango tree, looking up into its leafy heights laden with clusters of pale green fruit that grew plumper day by day. It would be a good mango season this year.

The sun was cresting over the seven hill range in the east.  Pink and purple dissolving into azure blue as the heat of the day became palpable; a presence that induced languidness at even the highest levels of government in the small, post-colonial backwater where she found herself.  It would be hard to find dry wood this morning. 

Her father had been away for several days, and no one knew where he was.  He took Tony’s bus to town on Saturday to go to market, but now it was Tuesday and he had not returned. It wasn’t a huge surprise when he did not come back on the Saturday afternoon bus.  He had friends in town. They drank beer and played music into the night. The girl knew this even though her mother pretended not to.

There were no buses on Sunday, so girl spent the day listening anxiously for the sound of vehicles climbing up the hill from the river, peeking through the trees to see if was a truck that he might have hitched a ride on. By Monday, the anxiety turned into an intolerable combination of frustration and worry.  This morning, as the heat rose, so did a feeling of anger mixed with fear that the girl brushed away as she contemplated the tasks of the day ahead.

There was a fire to start, food to prepare, laundry to wash . . .

First, she had to start a fire in the hearth to prepare the day’s food.  Having rained relentlessly for nearly a week, today the woodpile had only a few dry logs in it. It was maybe enough to cook the rice, which was also running low. She prodded the damp logs; they were thick and would be hard to ignite. They needed to be split with an axe. Because she was a girl, her father had not taught her how to use the axe. Usually, her father would be the one to gather and chop firewood, but today it had to be her, because her mother needed to care for the baby, and look after the other children and the girl was the oldest, after all. Over the past few days, the girl sensed her mother’s rising anxiety, and wanted desperately to stem the tide of raw emotion that could be unleash at a moment’s notice.  Starting the fire would help.

Mustering cheerfulness, the girl climbed the rickety wooden stairs of the one room knock-and-stand-up house where they lived.  Her mother was up and opening the windows, pushing the wooden slats that covered the windows up and out with sturdy sticks. The girl could not help but think these sticks would make good firewood on a morning like this. Her baby brother, only six months old, began to wail and her mother quickly plopped onto the foam on the floor, picked up the infant and clutched him to her breast.  The baby seemed happy. The girl wondered if he was the only one. In the corner was a pile of dirty diapers from the night before.  Childbirth had been hard on her mother; she was still recovering.  The girl and her younger sister had to do the family’s laundry, which were mostly diapers because the girl and her two sisters only had six dresses between them.

While her mother nursed, the girl roused her sisters.  Her mother shouted something about them doing their lessons as the girls ran off into the yard.  The girl led them to a spot where, before the rains, her father had cleared the underbrush with his machete.  He planted some plantain and cassava here, which were doing very well now that they were properly watered.  In the clearing, she saw a parrot tree what had a lot of dead branches reaching up to the sky.  In the rainy season everything became green and lush, so it was easy to spot dead branches, because they had no leaves.  This was exactly what she was looking for.  Dead branches were good, because if they were upright and had bark on them, they usually stayed dry despite on rain. They would catch fire easily. While her sisters poked at a large snail that was crawling across a rock, the girl climbed the parrot tree.

From here, she had a good view of the road. She could see its gravel ascent up the hill from the river.  At this time of day, there were no vehicles.  The morning buses from the village left for town when it was still dark. She could see across the river to the hill on the other side, where old Chiac kept his cows.  His cows always looked hungry and sometimes he would herd them down the road to graze in other places on the reservation. No one seemed to mind, because Chiac was one of the few Mayan men who owned his own land. This morning, the cows were probably happily grazing on all of the new vegetation that came with the rains. She looked out past Chaic’s pasture, toward the seven hill range, and over the treetops of the valley that stretched all the way to the sea.  It was a wide open expanse that seemed just big enough to contain the daydreams that were welling up inside of her with more force every day.

Sitting in the crook of two solid branches, she reached out and put her hands firmly around a dead branch. She pulled on it withal her might. She persisted until she heard that satisfactory snap, and then pulled harder until the branch was broken free.

“Look out!” she yelled, as she let the branch fall to the ground.

Her sisters jumped back gleefully. She scaled down the tree and the girls began to break apart the branch; the small pieces for kindling, the bigger ones for firewood.  Now they could make breakfast.  The hens were very good at laying eggs, so her sister brought some from inside the house and the girl fried them in a cast iron pan over the fire she made from the parrot tree wood.

Now her mother was up, and insisting that the girls do their lessons. They did not go to school, so home lessons were all they got by way of an education.  Lessons seemed like a better deal than grating coconut or washing diapers, so the sisters obliged. The girl was learning algebra from an American textbook and reading David Copperfield. Since she did not have real friends, the fictional boy became like a friend to her; she felt like she knew him. He was kind, resilient and adept at making is own way in the world. She imagined him handsome.  It seemed he understood something about life that she was still trying to make sense of. There he was, in the greenhouse with Dora, falling in love. Or, as he described it, falling into captivity.

“It contained quite a show of beautiful geraniums. We loitered along in front of them, and Dora often stopped to admire this one or that one, and I stopped to admire the same one, and Dora, laughing, held the dog up childishly, to smell the flowers; and if we were not all three in Fairyland, certainly I was. The scent of a geranium leaf, at this day, strikes me with a half comical, half serious wonder as to what change has come over me in a moment; and then I see a straw hat and blue ribbons, and a quantity of curls, and a little black dog being held up, in two slender arms, against a bank of blossoms and bright leaves.”

She looked up from pages, a pondered, wistfully about the possibility of ever strolling through a greenhouse with a boy like David Copperfield.  Suddenly, a loud, raucous cacophony of Piam Piam birds disrupted her thoughts as they descended on a nearby guava tree and began feasting on ripe fruit.  It was mid-morning and time for laundry.  She put the book down. Laundry had to be done early so there was time for it to dry on the clothesline before the clouds rumbled in.

The baby and the youngest sister stayed behind as the two older girls carried a bucket overflowing with diapers down to the river. As they approached the bank, it was clear that, today, they would not be doing laundry in the river.  The river had jumped the bank. Muddy water swirled menacingly with a current that seemed swift enough to carry a child away. She remembered her father’s story about the Mayan boy who had drowned this way. She imagined his small, bloated, copper body floating by. Protectively, the girl grabbed her sister’s hand.  They stood in silence, mesmerized for a moment by the power and beauty of river’s transformation.  The river, thought the girl, is like my heart.

There was plenty of water in the rain barrels, so they did laundry in the yard that day. Jumping up and down in soapy buckets like a human washing machines. They pulled the petals off of trumpet shaped yellow Amandala flowers, dipping them into the sudsy water then blowing on the bottom to make bubbles.  Their father would call this “rass” but he was not here to scold them today.

As the noonday sun beat down, the girls draped diapers, threadbare dresses and floral patterned sheets over the clothes line that hung between trees in the sour sop orchard.  Hopefully, the sun’s heat and the wind that blew from the east would be enough to dry them quickly. Already, in the northeast, the girl could see a darkness gathering in the sky.

It was time to cook the rice and beans.  Her mother was working on getting the fire going again, blowing on the embers until she was out of breath.  The girls cracked open a coconut and used a knife to separate the coconut meat from the shell. Her little sister helped grate the coconut on a piece of metal pierced by nails that was fashioned into a grater. The girls took turns squeezing the grated coconut in warm water until the water became white and milky.  They strained out the coconut and fed it to the chickens.  The coconut milk was added to a pot with the last of the rice. If their father did not come home today with rice, tomorrow they would have to dig up cassava to eat.

He did return that day on the last bus from town. Her mother spent the afternoon listening for buses on the hill.  First, Chindo’s bus went by.  Then Pop’s bus.  When the Jalacte bus barreled by, her mother began to pace the yard nervously and mumble to herself. The girl began to think about where she would get firewood tomorrow. When Tony’s bus stopped at the bottom of the hill, a sense of relief swept over her. Her mother’s face lit up as she dabbed on lipstick.

Although he left with a grocery list and enough money for everything on it, her father returned with no money and only a few items from the list; just a couple pounds of rice and beans, some pigtail, a small bag of tomatoes and carrots, a gallon of kerosene and a can of sweetened, condensed milk. The girl could tell her mother was upset that he spent all the money with so little to show for it. But the girl was not surprised. Surely, the rest of the money must have been spent on Belikin beer, although she dare not say it.  Instead, she looked up at gathering clouds and knew it was time to bring in the laundry.

That night, her mother hummed a lullaby to the baby, looking like a Caravaggio Madonna and child in the dim light of the hurricane lamp. Hail Mary, full of grace.  The girls said their prayers and went to bed. As thunder rolled in from the edges of the world, her father stayed up listening to the BBC world news on their battery powered radio. In the United States, a presidential race was raging, in England, the IRA was blowing things up again, and Russia was sending men to the space station.

As the rain pounded on the tin roof, the girl lay awake, imagining the smell of geraniums.


Photo Credit: Wil Maheia








Thursday, February 2, 2017

With the Exception of You

With the Exception of You





I like to imagine that you don't exist
(this is a lie, I don't like it at all)
That you were but a daydream
That I have woken up from 
Everything goes back to the way it was
Because, really, not much has 
Changed for me
With the exception of you

I wake up
The room is the same, okay, 
those are new curtains  
But still looks the same
And through my suddenly new curtains
I see the same cars, just in a different order
The same flowers, just different colors
Even the sirens and horns and the conversations are the same

But wait
The day has changed
It's lengthening not shortening
The light is increasing
All around me 
How is this possible
When you are not here
I mean, where did you go anyway
Or better yet
Where did you come from
I was crying
Suddenly you were there
Figment
Phantom
Friend


FriendWith the Exception of You
I like to imagine that you don't exist
(this is a lie , I don't like it at all)
That you were but a daydream
That I have woken up from
Everything goes back to the way it was
Because, really, not much has
Changed for me
With the exception of you
I wake up
The room is the same, okay,
those are new curtains
74
But still
--
looks the same
And through my suddenly new curtains
I see the same cars, just in a different order
The same flowers, just different colors
Even the sirens and horns and the conversations are th
e same
But wait
The day has changed
It's lengthening not shortening
The light is increasing
All around me
How is this possible
When you are not here
I mean, where did you do anyway
Or better yet
Where did you come from
I was crying
Suddenly you were there
Figment
Phantom
Friend With the Exception of You
I like to imagine that you don't exist
(this is a lie , I don't like it at all)
That you were but a daydream
That I have woken up from
Everything goes back to the way it was
Because, really, not much has
Changed for me
With the exception of you
I wake up
The room is the same, okay,
those are new curtains
74
But still
--
looks the same
And through my suddenly new curtains
I see the same cars, just in a different order
The same flowers, just different colors
Even the sirens and horns and the conversations are th
e same
But wait
The day has changed
It's lengthening not shortening
The light is increasing
All around me
How is this possible
When you are not here
I mean, where did you do anyway
Or better yet
Where did you come from
I was crying
Suddenly you were there
Figment
Phantom
Friend